Misc. Mental Musings
Compiled Card Games
S. G. Lacey
There’s all manner of websites which provide detailed rules and run of play for any card game ever invented. That’s not the goal of this article. Presented here is a compilation of entertaining card competitions played by individuals worldwide, many of which have evolved and improved over the years.
This collection focuses heavily on pursuits which require true strategy, as opposed to relying on random luck. There’s plenty of incredibly complex challenges, like Contract Bridge, and absurdly simple tasks, like Go Fish. This list finds that sweet spot in the middle, where socializing and strategizing merge. The hope is that each game can be learned in a single sitting, especially when accompanied by someone who already knows the basic rules.
The following preliminary table and subsequent section titles can serve as an initial screen, depending on the competency of the crew amassed. Aside from a few more obscure ventures, which are noted, all these activities can be executed with a standard 52 card deck, plus a joker or two.
Card game variants are surprisingly nuanced, with each region, era, and peoples adopting their own version. The rules presented here offer a basic overview, from which local protocols can be adjusted as deemed fit. Before starting, feel free to accommodate arguments about dealing scheme, card rank, and point allocation, based on assembled participants.
Tricks:
Turing tricks has been part of societal interaction, especially amongst the affluent, for several millennia. In this case, the term refers not to bawdy pursuits, but instead winning individual hands in a card game. The key here is selecting the correct “trump” suit, the identified highest rank, that beats all others when played. Below is a trio of card classics, from which many similar structures have spawned over time.
Nicknames = Pepper, Hasenpfeffer.
Players = 4 players in partnership teams. (2, 3, and 6 person versions possible, with slight rule modifications.)
Format = 24 card deck (A – 9), ace high in suit. Jack of trump (“right bower”) and jack of same color (“left bower”) rank above all other trumps.
Deal = 5 cards to each player, clockwise, alternating 2 then 3 to opponents, and 3 then 2 to teammates. The remaining 4 cards are placed in front of the dealer, with the top card flipped up, representing the proposed trump suit.
Goal = Winning at least 3 of the 5 total tricks earns 1 point for the attacking team. If this lead partnership takes all 5 tricks, they get 2 points, and 4 points when one person goes “alone”. Winning 3 or more tricks, dubbed being “euchred”, earns 2 points for the defending team. Matches are to 11 points.
Pregame = During the first round, starting at dealer’s left, each player can “pass” or “order up” the top card, the displayed suit representing trump, which the dealer takes, discarding one offering from their hand. If everyone “passes”, during the second round each individual in order has the chance to declare their desired trump suit. Another option is to go solo, called “alone”, trying to take all 5 tricks, without the help of a partner.
Play = Left of dealer starts (or left of player going “alone”). Standard trick play, must follow suit if possible, highest card of led suit wins, keeping track of powerful “bower” colored jacks. The previous trick winner leads out the next card, keeping won tricks face down.
Strategy = With a limited number of cards, hands often play out predictably. As a partnership game, it’s important to keep track of which key valuable denominations are yet to be played, and help your teammate when possible. Remember that 3 cards, sometimes even an important “bower”, are buried and not in play each round.
Nicknames = Setback, Cinch, High – Low – Jack.
Players = 3 – 6, as individuals or teams (2 partner teams best).
Format = 52 card deck, ace high.
Deal = 7 cards (2 – 3 – 2), clockwise.
Goal = Win the “high”, “low”, and “jack” of trump, plus “game” (sum of all 10’s, worth 10, and face cards of any suit: A = 4, K = 3, Q = 2, J = 1. These numerical values are referred to as “pips”, to avoid confusion with the 4 main objectives. The trump suit jack is not always in play, so sometimes only 3 total points are available.
Pregame = Bid between 2 and 4 of the potential points, with the opportunity to “lead out” the chosen trump suit. If no player bids, the dealer must attempt 2 points by default.
Play = The first card played declares the trump suit. Standard trick play, highest card of led suit wins. Anyone can “trump in” at any time; this is the key element of differentiation from simpler trick games. After all 7 tricks are resolved, determine who captured the “high” and “low”, which will be different in denomination each hand. Also, check for the “jack” of trump, and tally up all “pips” in hand for “game”. Losing bids get a minus score, and opposing teams can earn any points claimed. The match is resolved to an odd # of points, 15 or greater, with winning entity required to bid to end the competition.
Strategy = Lead high cards initially to extract trumps or other face cards, then try to defer control, dropping low trumps and 10’s in later rounds. Partners should pass off valuable cards any time possible. Just a lone ace can garner 3 points on the first trick, winning the jack and 2 of same trump suit. Thus, opening bids can be made with a wide range of starting hands, especially in partnership format.
Nicknames = French Canadian Version: 2 jokers, more discards, play to 1000.
Players = 4 in partnerships.
Format = 43 card deck (no 2s, 3s, or red 4s, add one joker); trump-colored jacks, joker, then ace high.
Deal = 10 cards (3 – 4 – 3), with one card in middle between (3 shared in total), clockwise.
Goal = Work with partner to achieve agreed up bid each hand. The game ends when one team reaches 500 points, based on the bid values for each trick quantity and trump suit, as shown in the table below, which also denotes the order for raising wagers.
Pregame = Opening bids, in the same order as the deal, must be 6 or more tricks in a specific trump suit. Can also declare “no trump” (joker only high card), or not planning to win any tricks (“misère”); when executed “open” (face up and alone), this achievement constitutes an automatic win. Bidding continues until a contract is reached; once a player passes, they can’t rejoin. Winning bid takes the “kitty”, the trio of cards at the center of the table, discarding the same number from their hand.
Play = Winning bid leads, and players must follow suit if possible. The trump suit is defined during the bidding process, but doesn’t have to be first card led. Standard trick winning, with any trump, including the off-suit but same color jack, and the lone joker, beating all other suits. Keep track of tricks, and play can stop whenever the bid amount is reached (add points) or impossible (subtract points). Reaching minus 500 points total is an automatic loss.
Strategy = Bidding alignment with one’s partner is key, to achieve the most points without getting set. Teams only get points for the initial bid, not how many tricks are actually taken, which pushes wagers to the limit. Use memory to keep track of remaining trumps in play, as essentially all cards of value are live.
Suits:
Getting to pick the suit of choice is one thing. Being mandated to leverage a specific symbol as the highest-ranking offering necessitates a much different strategy. Understandably, a few of these games are directly named after the suit of power. However, the run of play is not as simple as it seems, with trick cards and penalty points. Make sure to keep colors and shapes straight as play progresses.
Nicknames = Black Maria.
Players = 4 (individual only) – 3 or 5 players with some 2’s removed to get even hands.
Format = 52 card deck, ace high.
Deal = 13 cards, clockwise.
Goal = Take the fewest possible hearts (1 point each), and completely avoid the queen of spades (13 points). This is a rare card game where the lowest amassed points when the worst participant hits a specific numerical target (100 total points) wins.
Pregame = Organize dealt cards in hand by suit and rank. Each player passes 3 cards in alternating rotation by deal – left, right, across, none.
Play = 2 of clubs leads, everyone must follow suit if possible. It’s illegal to “dump” a heart on first trick, and can’t lead hearts until “broken” (when player with empty led suit drops a heart). The queen of spades can be led at any time, but is a risky proposition. Run through all 13 tricks, with prior winner leading, then sum up total points in each player’s earned card pile.
Strategy = Try to empty suits, then discard the important queen if held, plus high hearts. Another risky ploy is to “shoot the moon”, which entails collecting all 13 hearts, plus the queen of spades, adding 26 points to the tally of all opponents.
Nicknames = Whist is the slightly different precursor.
Players = 2 (individual) or 4 (partnerships).
Format = 52 card deck, ace high, spades always trump and superior.
Deal = 13 cards, clockwise.
Goal = Win at least as many total tricks as the teammates individually bid, which can be harder than it seems, with each person wagering blind based purely on their own cards.
Pregame = In order, clockwise, each player states how many tricks they can “take” on their own, with the dealer acting last. A “nil” (no individual tricks won) declaration, earns 100 points for the successful player’s team. The sum total of each team must be at least 4 tricks, which can force the second bidding participant to go bolder than desired. Unlike many other partnership games, there’s only a single round of interaction.
Play = Left of dealer leads, and others must follow suit if possible. Spades cannot be played unless the initial suit is empty, or led until an out-of-turn spade has been dropped. Spades beat any other suit, and per usual follow ace high to deuce low rank order. Keep each trick won in front of player who garnered it to enable scoring. After all 13 rounds, if a team meets their bid, they get 10 points for each claimed trick, then an additional point for each extra one procured. The excess tally is called a “bag”; each time a team amasses 10 extras, they get a minus 100-point penalty for “sandbagging”. In contrast, failure to reach the stated number of total team tricks results in subtracting 10 times the target goal from their score. The game goes until one team achieves 500 points.
Strategy = Since both squads can win on the same hand by hitting their bid, there’s a balance between conservatism and greed. If the first teammate has a strong starting hand, they should bid aggressively to take pressure off their partner. “Bags” can add up, but conservative, achievable wagers are often more prudent than getting a negative score.
Nicknames = Backdoor Bridge, Blackout, Elevator, Oh Pshaw.
Players = Up to 8.
Format = 52 card deck, ace high.
Deal = In a unique twist, the quantity dealt changes every round. Start with one card face down to each player, then flip the top card of the deck face up to identify trump suit. Deal an additional incremental card each subsequent turn, using the same trump determination procedure. Gameplay continues until all cards are evenly dealt (13 with 4 participants), or, if ambitious, continues all the way back to a single holding per person.
Goal = Win exactly the number of tricks bid, based on the collection of cards in each individual’s hand, and the identified trump suit. Players get one point for each trick taken, but subtract their actual bid number if not reached. Achieving an exact bid result earns a 10-point bonus.
Pregame = In order, counterclockwise, unlike most games, each player states how many tricks they can take on their own, with the dealer acting last. The dealer must place a final bid that doesn’t equal the total number of available tricks; the sum can either be higher or lower.
Play = Again, right of dealer leads, and others must follow suit if possible. If empty, trump, or any other suit, can be played. Keep each trick won in front of the participant who earned it to enable score monitoring, which is critical from a tactical standpoint.
Strategy = With hitting an exact bid worth 10 points, this is the primary goal, especially in early rounds, that are more luck-based. This is one of the few games where people often try to lose tricks, usually at the end of each turn, which can be difficult. Focus on empty suits and slipping under high cards led whenever possible. Very large swings in score are possible over the course of just a few hands in this rollercoaster ride.
Placement:
These are some of the most underrated, yet highly skill-based, pursuits in the playing card landscape. Combining elements of other games into a novel package, the optimal technique for each activity listed to follow is precise and unique. It may take a few sessions to dial in the general flow, but, once mastered, subtle strategies can be employed. This style of card games is also great for head-to-head competition, with friendly conversation interspersed.
Nicknames = Too many variants to list out; most include Rummy or Rum in the game title.
Players = 2 to 5 players, or 6 to 10 with a second deck.
Format = 52 card deck, numerals are relevant rather than rank.
Deal = 7 cards per person (can vary based on number of participants), face down, clockwise, in any count order. The rest of the pack is put in the center of the table, with the top card flipped over and placed adjacent, starting the discard.
Goal = Build 3-card “melds”, either “sets” (same numerical rank) and “runs” (consecutive order of the same suit). The winning player is the first to empty their entire hand via legal plays. Per card scoring is as follows: 2 – 10 = numerical values, J – K = 10 points, A = 15 points. Matches can be played in any increment of 100 points.
Play = Person left of dealer starts, either taking a blind offering atop the pack, or picking up the exposed discard. The latter option can only be taken if this allows an immediate “meld” to be made, which is placed face up in front of the successful player. Continue with this draw and discard approach clockwise in order. The discard pile should be fanned out so all numerals are visible; a line of any length can be pulled provided the last card selected enables a legal play from one’s hand. On each individual’s turn, they can also deploy any holding that fits with any other laid-down “melds” on the table.
Endgame = The contest ends when a player gets rid of all their cards in hand via their own “melds”, or by adding on to those played by their opponents. A valid endgame requires having one remaining card to place in the discard pile. Once the first participant goes out, everyone is allowed to make any additional legal plays from their hand, then adds their own score, per the point values noted above. Any remaining cards still unused are subtracted from their total tally for the game.
Strategy = Try to collect numerical pairs and adjacent suited cards, allowing more optionality when picking up from the discard pile. There are two basic schools of thought: keep total cards in hand low by drawing a single one from atop the deck, hoping for a match-up, or acquire a long string from the discard, amassing lots of points, but also risking more penalties in the end. Often players get stuck without a final discard option, forcing them to wait for a lucky break.
Nickname = Straight (no “knocking”), Oklahoma (upcard dictates “knock” value), and Mahjong (alternate linear discard pick-up scheme).
Players = Only a pairs game.
Format = 52 card deck, numerals are relevant rather than suit.
Deal = 10 cards to each participant, seated across from each other. The rest of the pack is put in the center of the table, with the top card flipped over and placed adjacent, starting the discard.
Goal = Build 3-card “melds”, either “sets” (same numerical rank) and “runs” (consecutive order of the same suit). The winning player must amass a hidden hand of 10 cards of which nearly all satisfy these collection requirements. Card scoring for excess “deadwood” (“unmelded” holdings) is as follows: A = 1 point, 2 – 10 = numerical values, J – K = 10 points. Matches are typically played to 100 points, but this target can be increased depending on available time.
Play = The non-dealer starts, either taking a blind offering atop the pack, or picking up the exposed discard. On the first round only, the dealer also has a chance at the initial up card, before the opponent covers it. Play continues back and forth in this same manner; regardless of the selected option, participants must discard down to 10 cards at the end of each turn.
Endgame = If, after discarding, a player has less than 10 total points (“deadwood”) in their hand that aren’t part of a legal “meld”, they can “knock”, signaling desire to go out. A finishing hand with no “deadwood” is identified as “gin”, earning a 25-point bonus, plus all the “deadwood” count their opponent holds. Otherwise, the other person gets a chance to contribute to any “melds” exposed by the lead player who “knocked”, then the value of leftover cards is tallied and compared. If the competitor ends up with less “deadwood” than the “knocker”, they get a 25-point bonus for undercutting.
Strategy = Achieving “gin” offers the best chance to score big points, but requires a perfect combination of cards. Trying for “melds” using low-value cards helps to minimize “deadwood” at the end of each hand, even if not being able to “knock”. Also, watching which cards one’s opponent picks up and discards can help anticipate what “sets” and “runs” they’re targeting, and what values may be scooped up if passed off.
Nicknames = None for the game itself, but lots of unique terms are involved in the run of play.
Players = 2 (individual) or 4 (partnerships).
Format = 52 card deck, face cards worth 10 points, ace low worth 1 point, all others have their numerical value.
Deal = 6 cards, 2 at a time, clockwise. For a team game, only 5 cards are dealt out.
Goal = Get to 121 points first, using the standard Cribbage board to keep score. Points, which are “pegged” on incremental holes in real time, can be earned in 3 distinct game phases: “count”, “flip”, and “combo”. See the cheat sheet below for detailed scoring values.
Pregame = After looking at their cards, both players must discard a pair of holdings (one each with a quartet of team participants) into the “crib”, the namesake for this game. This amassed pile will be scored by the dealer as an extra hand later on.
Play = Beginning left of the dealer, the initial “count” round starts, with cards played face up one at a time from individual’s hands. The running total numerical tally is communicated verbally, with 31 being the maximum target value. If a person can’t legally add, their opponent(s) gets a point, and if a player hits 15 or 31 exactly, they get 2 points. Proceed in alternating order until all cards in hand are depleted, with the final one dropped earning an additional tally. Then, commencing the “flip” phase, the top offering of the remaining deck is turned over, representing the “starter” future gameplay. If anyone holds the jack of the identified suit in their hand, dubbed “nobs”, they immediately “peg” a point. This exposed card is part of all hands for the remainder of the action. Next, in the “combo” round, each individual scores their own holding of 4 cards, along with the “starter”, counting any numerical sum to 15 (2), pairs (2), runs (3), and flushes (4). Unlike other games, cards can be tallied multiple times; trips are worth 6 (3 sets of pairs), and duplicate sequences (J, Q, Q, K) are counted twice, for 8 total points in this example.
Strategy = This description paints a confusing picture, but optimal performance is fairly straightforward when following a few basic tenants. As Michael Jackson said, Jacks and 5s are the most valuable cards in the game. Scores can change quickly, with anywhere between 0 and 50 points possible per round, and even more in a partnership match. It’s important to take advantage of being dealer, when you can dump valuable cards into your own “crib”.
Foreign:
The origin of playing cards dates all the way back to China in the middle of the 1st millennium B.C., not long after papermaking was invented; this advanced culture apparently found time for leisure between their diligent temple and wall building pursuits. The type of deck commonly used today is the French version, with the ubiquitous suits of spades, hearts, diamonds, and clubs, and face card images reminiscent of Middle Ages royals. While most card games share the same general structure, below are a few unique offerings that break the traditional mold. Like learning a foreign language, it may take a little time to understand these challenges, but the rewards can be valuable, especially when traveling overseas.
Nicknames = Calabresella (Italian misnomer), Terziglio.
Players = 3 individuals, 4th can be alternating non-playing dealer.
Format = 40 card Spanish/Italian deck (standard 52 pack with 8 – 10 removed); card rank is 3, 2, A, then normal descending order. Captured card “counting” values are as follows: 3 = As, 1 = 3s, 2s, Ks, Qs, and Js, with all other numerals worth nothing.
Deal = 12 cards to each person, delivered clockwise in pairs, with the final 4 offerings place in the middle face down, forming the “widow”.
Goal = Win tricks to claim as many “counting” points as possible. 35 total are in play, 8 of each suit, with an additional 3-point bonus to the individual who claims the final 12th trick of the round.
Pregame = Staring left of the dealer, participants go around in order stating either “I pass” or “ I play”; if everyone passes a redeal occurs. The first individual to declare the latter phrase becomes the designated “player” for the round. This person can ask their opponents for any card of a single suit not held in their hand (usually a 3, sometimes a 2), which must be exchanged for a secret card of choice (not seen by other opponent) from the “player’s” hand. No swap happens if the requested card is in the “widow” pile. Next, the “player” selects anywhere from 1 to 4 holdings in their hand for discrete discard, then flips the widow for all to see, and replenishes to the target 12 cards. The discarded quartet is set aside to be claimed for “counting” values by the winner of the final trick, which is also worth an additional 3 points.
Play = The person left of the “player” leads the first trick, and continuing clockwise, the other combatant, now in partnership, must follow suit if possible. Standard trick winning, with no trump suits, just remember that 3s, then 2s, are higher ranking than aces and all other cards. The round score is simply tallied as the difference in acquired “counting” points between the “player” and the duo of opponents. A tally of 18, resulting in a margin of victory, and score change, of just a single one point, is the minimum possible result per round. Any number of deals divisible by 3 (typically 36 or 48 in tournaments) can constitute a full match.
Strategy = The key to this game is deciding whether or not to become the “player”. With no trumps, it’s key to have a balanced hand, with at least a few high cards of each suit, to stop a long run of trick taking by the challengers. While the “player” gets substantial help from the potential 3 trade and “widow” exchange, it’s important to remember that the pair of opponents are both playing together, constantly trying to pass off “counting” point cards to each other. Memory is also valuable, as the “player” is the only one who knows what cards were discarded, and no longer in play.
Nicknames = Invented in Trinidad, hence the whimsical moniker.
Players = 4, in paired teams or individually.
Format = 4 standard and identically backed decks (plan accordingly), 208 cards total, ace high, with unique “personal” trumps.
Deal = 13 cards each, clockwise. Reserve remainder of the tall stack for 3 subsequent deals, which constitutes the full game.
Goal = Build “calypsos”, which are a complete set of cards from A – 2 in each participant’s “personal” trump suit. Each successive “calypso” achieved scores an increasing # of points: 500, 750, 1000, and 1250. Thus, attaining all 4 possible calypsos results in 3500 points tallied. Additional points are earned per card for incomplete calypso cards (20) and other cards won (10) at the end of the match.
Pregame = Starting left of dealer, players choose their desired trump suit. In partnership game, teammates can select spades and hearts, or diamonds and clubs; there are no suit restrictions in an individual match, except that all 4 shapes must be represented.
Play = The initial bidder leads, and others must follow suit if possible, with the highest card taking the trick. If the exact same card is played by 2 people, the first one dropped wins. If the led suit is empty in a one’s hand, they can use their personal trump suit, or dump other cards. The highest-ranking trump on any hand wins the trick, remember this suit is different for each player. The concepts of multiple trump suits and multiple identical cards in play can take some time to get used to when resolving tricks.
Building = Calypsos are built face up in front of each individual using the cards won. After each trick, the winner separates their personal trumps, and passes partner’s trumps across. The goal is to collect A – 2 of one’s personal suit, at which point these 13 ordered cards are stacked and flipped over; only one “calypso” per player can be built at a time. Retain all other cards won in a pile face down, these cannot be accessed again. After completion of the initial 13 tricks, additional deals and play continue in the same manner, essentially resuming the builds where the contest left off. Failure to appropriately follow suit at any time is highly frowned upon, considering the “personal” trump” element, and results in a 260-point penalty.
Strategy = Selecting a pair of suits that matches up well with partner, and keeping track of missing calypso cards, are the keys to winning this unique game. From a defense standpoint, one technique is to force an opponent to win multiples of the same card in their “personal” suit in quick succession, forcing one or more to be buried in the discard pile. It doesn’t hurt to have an automatic card shuffler handy for this ambitious endeavor.
Nicknames = Schafkopf (National Card Game of Germany), with many Germanic regional variants.
Players = 3 individuals, 4th can be alternating non-playing dealer.
Format = 32 card deck (7s and above with As); jacks (clubs, spades, hearts, diamonds in order) are always high, then A, 10, K, Q, 9, 8, 7 of trump, if one is identified. Each offering also has an assigned card point value as follows: A = 11, 10 = 10, K = 4, Q = 3, J = 2, 9 – 7 = 0. If using a German deck, the corresponding ranking suits are acorns, leaves, hearts, then bells, and the face cards are labeled with K, O, and U, however the royalty pictures should be sufficient for identification.
Deal = 10 cards (3 – 4 – 3), with 2 shared cards (“skat”) in middle after the first round of 3, clockwise.
Goal = Come up with a bid that will allow the most individual game points to be achieved. The total pack contains 120 card points (different than game points), thus the “declarer” must earn at least 61 of these to gain a winning majority. If this baseline success is achieved, they have the potential to earn game points based on combining the selected trump suit base value with various multipliers.
Auction = There are many unique terms in this game related to the auction that allows score multipliers to be earned. The trump suits are valued in the same order as the jack ranking, ranging from 9 (diamonds) to 12 (clubs) game points. In addition to choosing trump, a person can also decide to play only the 4 jacks as trump, referred to as “grand”, or try to go “null”, meaning there’s no trumps whatsoever, and the “declarer” won’t take any tricks. The “declarer” also gets to decide whether to pick up the 2 cards in the center, called the moniker appropriate “skat”, then discard a pair from their hand, or keep original holdings, denoting a “hand” game, which they can chose to play “open” (face-up) for additional credit. The “declarer” can claim “schneider” (90+ card points) and “schwarz” (win all tricks) in a “hand” match, earning a higher multiplier, but these card point targets are automatically scored in “skat” format. Lastly, the “matadors” are an unbroken string of the highest-ranking trumps based on the auction result; cards from the “skat” count towards this sequence even if playing a “hand” game. The following list summarizes all the factors which go into the game point calculation.
Pregame = The middle player starts the auction with 18 or more game points, then first participant says “pass”, conceding the bid, or “yes”, which forces the initial bidder to raise again or give up. The winner from this initial round then repeats the process, with the dealer calling the point values, which must continue higher. This iterative method determines the final game point number and “declarer” for the round. Considering the various combinations of suits and multipliers, not every incremental numeral is a valid in the auction. An example of the correct bid format would be “with 3 (trio of “matadors”), game 4 (win 61 card points, “schneider” 5 (over 90+ card points), 5 (total multiplier) times clubs (12 suit base point value) is 60 (total game points earned if contract is successful).
Play = Upon winning the auction, the “declarer” either picks up the “skat”, or stays with their original “hand”. This person then restates the desired trump suit, and the actual activity begins. The participant to the left of the dealer always leads the first trick, players must follow suit if possible. Standard trick winning with any trump, including all jacks, beating all other suits, except in a “null” game. The “declarer” is trying to earn at least 61 card points, or more in the case of “schneider” and “schwarz” attempts. If successful, the “declarer” earns the actual calculated tally of game points, but if they don’t achieve their stated game points goal, they lose double the auction value. Any number of deals divisible by 3 (typically 36 or 48 in tournaments) can constitute a full match.
Strategy = While seemingly quite complex, with card and game points to keep track of, along with multiplier values, once the nuances of the auction process are grasped, this structure plays out like many other trump-based pursuits. Having a substantial run of “matadors” allows the card points to be controlled. It’s important to remember that the pair of opponents are both playing together against the “declarer”, constantly trying to thwart that individual’s auction bid.
Speed:
Some of the most stimulating activities that can be executed with a pack of cards are based around speed. Combining mental acuity with reaction time turns a mundane card contest into a physical pursuit. While individual Solitaire pushes the limits of one’s own skill set, when battling against a partner, or even more so in a group setting, can really get the competitive juices flowing. Here’s a few interesting card-based pursuits, which can be enjoyed by anywhere from a lone pair to a dozen participants, while placing a premium on rapidity of mind and movement.
Nicknames = Slam, Speed.
Players = 2
Format = 52 card deck, ace high or low, played in either order.
Deal = Entire deck, in any alternating format that results in a pair of equal, 26-card, allotments.
Goal = Simple. Get rid of all one’s cards as quickly as possible.
Pregame = Each player creates their own starting board, a “stack” of 4 rows with incrementally more cards, face up in front of them, using the standard Solitaire format (increasing # of hidden cards progressing to the right). The rest of the “pack” is held face down in the person’s weak hand. The seating arrangement must be close and opposing, since speed and reach are key as the game plays out.
Play = Both players simultaneously flip the top card from their “pack” into the middle of the “stack” rows, creating a 4 – 2 – 4 format; these immediately become the shared gaming “piles”. Rapidly, start depositing cards from one’s own quartet into either of the middle duo, going up and down in number incrementally, using only the free hand. If neither participant can proceed, then both opponents’ “spit”, flipping up another card from their held “pack” allotment into the center again. Most importantly, as soon as a person gets rid of all their down “stack” cards, they can slap the smaller discard “pile”, which now becomes part of their remaining holdings. Both players shuffle their “pack” and “pile” together, redo their “stack” quartet, then “spit” again.
Strategy = This game is based purely on speed and reaction time, until the final gameplay. With all the opponent’s card options visible, it’s possible to maneuver numerals up and down to styme the person across the table. Once an individual gets down below 10 holdings, the minimum requirement for a full “stack” layout, with no “pack” remaining, the only one “pile” to work off, then the endgame is near.
Nicknames = Slap, Snot, Egyptian War.
Players = 3 - 8 (the more the better).
Format = 52 card deck, ace high.
Deal = All cards, one at a time, clockwise, into face down piles.
Goal = Win as many cards as possible, i.e., all of them. The person who captures the entire deck is the victor.
Play = Starting left of the dealer, the top card from that person’s hidden pile is flipped face up into the middle of the table. Each subsequent player puts an offering on top of this stack until a face card is revealed. At this point, the next participant must come up with their own face card in the allotted # of tries (A = 4, K = 3, Q = 2, J = 1). The last person to make a legal move takes everything in the shared stack. Meanwhile, during the run of play, anyone can claim the center stack by “slapping in” under the following conditions:
Doubles, either in a row or, with one card between.
Matching the starting card of the round.
Summing to 10, together, or with a face card in between.
A numerical sequence of 4, up or down, which can be out of order.
Any king plus queen connected in marriage.
Strategy = Memory and speed are the two keys to this game. A “slap” scenario occurs almost every round, thereby placing a premium on physical reaction time. An illegal “slap” results in an extra donation being added to the bottom of the pile. When out of cards, players can still continue to try slapping in, to regain a useable stack.
Nicknames = Pig or Tongue (without the fun utensil props).
Players = 3 minimum, with the more the merrier, as long as every one can fit around an available circular table, with equidistant reach to the central goal.
Format = 52 card deck, with numerical matching being the only thing that matters.
Deal = Arrange a collection of spoons (yes, the kitchen utensil) in a radial pattern, one less than the total number of participants, in the center of the flat game surface. Next, deal 4 cards to each player, face down, in any order or direction.
Goal = Collect a quartet of matching cards in hand, then grab a spoon, as overtly or covertly as desired. The loser is the only person unable to procure an eating tool, who gets a letter; the game ends when the poor sap spells “S – P – O – O – N – S”.
Play = The oldest individual starts with the face-down deck in front of them, providing an opportunity to control the speed of the game. This leader picks up a card from the top of the pile, then discards any of their 5 holdings to the side of their choice. This offering is picked up by the adjacent person, who does the same, continuing the pass around the ring in the initial direction. This seemingly simple activity continues until any player procures all 4 of the same card, at which point they can grab a spoon, and chaos ensues.
Strategy = There are two approaches to this game; focus on matching cards in one’s own hand, or simply watch for any movement in the central spoon stash. Passing can move incredibly fast, but the endgame can drag out, with players sometimes accidentally tossing the final card they need. No participant can have more than 5 cards in their possession at one time, or pull one back after passing. Most importantly, any fake movements towards the spoons are highly frowned upon, with quartet audits common.
Drinking:
There’s plenty of drinking games that use cards, but most don’t have much strategic gameplay. If you’re just going for hydration, or amusement, try Kings, Ring of Fire, or Fuck the Dealer, all of which are executed with cards exposed, and luck driving the plot. The trio of challenges described here require actual organization of hands and execution of skill, which can become challenging after a few adult beverages.
Nicknames = President, or any other vulgar term for “butt”.
Players = 3 – 10, everyone’s on their own.
Format = 52 card deck, ace high (2 and 3’s wild).
Deal = All of them, in any deceptive order; players may not end up with the same starting quantity.
Goal = Get rid of all your cards first, to avoid penalties next round.
Pregame = Organize hand by rank, suit is irrelevant, and be ready to pull multiple cards of the same number at once.
Play = 4 of clubs leads the first hand; in future rounds, the winner of the last game (dubbed “president”) gets to start with any card(s) of their choosing. Each subsequent person in clockwise order must play an equal numerical value or higher. If the same card is laid down, the next player is skipped, and must drink. Any player can jump in if they can complete the set of 4 identical numbers atop the pile, which is then cleared, resulting in a social cheers. When no one can play, or all choose to pass, both actions which necessitate a drink, the pile is flipped over by the loser of the previous game (dubbed “asshole”), and the last person to make a legal move leads out any remaining card in their hand. Play continues until only one person has any holdings left; this unfortunate individual earns the “asshole” moniker, and is on shuffling duty for the next round.
Strategy = Try to hold pairs, triples, and wilds until a timely moment. If doubles are lead, players must follow with equal or higher doubles, allowing multiple cards to be dropped at once. 2s clear the entire pile, and 3s simply pass the depositing player’s turn. Observation and speed are the keys for getting rid of multiple cards out of turn, and winning the game.
Nicknames = Bluff, Cheat, I Doubt It.
Players = 3+, always individual.
Format = 52 card deck, suit and rank are not relevant.
Deal = The entire deck, in any format that results in roughly equal stacks; feel free to start the bullshitting while dealing.
Goal = Get rid of all cards, by any means possible, as there are essentially no rules.
Pregame = Organize hand in numerical order, suit doesn’t matter. Carefully note quads and empty values.
Play = Ace of spades starts; this card’s owner places it face down in the center, along with all other aces in their hand (or any other cards, if feeling bold), declaring the total quantity being dropped. Play continues in clockwise order, incrementing up numerically. If an individual doesn’t have any of the sequential value, they simply deposit a different card and lie. At any time, any participant can call “bullshit”, which initiates a check of the last blind deposit made. Whoever is wrong in this interaction must take the entire pile, and a hefty drink, then play continues with the ongoing numerical order.
Strategy = There are several techniques for passing off extra cards: manipulating the deal, playing the wrong number, lying about the amount of cards dropped. As more holdings are amassed by losers, specifically quads, it becomes simpler to call folks out. At any time, in exchange for hydrating, a participant can randomly pull a card from any opponent’s hand, in the hopes of acquiring the desired sequential value. The endgame must be planned way in advance; with the numerical order set and known from the beginning, it’s actually possible to have the necessary card(s) at the very end for a legal play.
Nicknames = Polish Polka, Crazy Nines, and a dozen other local variations. The 4 and 6 card options described below are both equally popular.
Players = 2+ (over 6 players requires a second deck).
Format = 52 card deck, ace low.
Deal = 4 cards to each player, one at a time, which are arranged face down in a 2 x 2 grid in front of them. The remaining deck goes in center of table, with the top one flipped to initiate a discard pile.
Goal = End up with the lowest score on each round (hole). Tally total values for each numerical card (1 [A] – 9), with Jacks/Queens being 10, Kings worth 0, and 10s representing a score of -3, and initiate a group social when exposed. Any pairs achieved on the final board also count as nothing, but necessitate an individual when revealed. Lowest total stroke tally after 9 or 18 holes wins.
Pregame = Each player checks any two of the face down cards, which must be memorized, and cannot be reviewed again during the game until flipped over.
Play = Proceed around table in clockwise order. Draw from exposed discard stack, or face-down main pile in the center, then swap out this selection for any hidden cards in one’s grid. Taking the face-up option requires that card be kept, while the draw offering can immediately be discarded. Activity continues until every person’s quartet is fully revealed.
Strategy = Memory, consistency, and luck are the keys to this game. The two primary strategies are going consistent and conservative, holding with low value but mismatched cards, or drawing dangerously, hoping for high pairs, kings, and 10s. A good scorecard should look similar to a round of actual golf, albeit more volatile, with negative and double-digit tallies possible per hole.
Alternate = An analogous golf layout uses 6 dealt cards in a 2-wide by 3-tall grid, with the bottom two offerings face up. In this format, matched pairs must be in the same row (still mandating a drink), but exposed cards can be swapped out as many times as desired. When the first player flips all 6 holdings, the remainder of competitors get one more swap, then must expose and score the remainer of their hand blindly, which can result in some brutal scores, and incite inebriation.
Poker:
Playing cards are synonymous with gambling, from Arizona’s Wild West saloons, to fancy French Riviera casinos, to underground opium dens across Asia. For most monetary games, competition is between the house bank and the individual players. However, some betting pursuits, namely various derivatives of poker, and ancillary card schemes, allow a group of folks to battle against each other, for chips and cash.
Nicknames = Omaha (4 hole cards).
Players = 2 – 10, based on available seats.
Format = 52 card deck, ace highest rank, and low for straights.
Deal = 2 cards face down total, one at a time, clockwise around the table.
Goal = Bet each round to either force all opponents out, or show the best 5-card poker hand at the end of play, to win the pot.
Pregame = Everyone secretly checks their down “hole” cards, then wagers based on the strength of these initial holdings. The two players left of the dealer each round, the small and big “blinds”, have mandatory bets they must make. Any person who wants to continue must match or raise the big “blind”, otherwise their hand is folded.
Play = Once the pot is right, the dealer “burns” the top card from the deck, then places the next 3 offerings, dubbed the “flop”, face up in the center of the table, to be shared by all players. Another round of betting commences, starting to the dealer’s left, with the small “blind”, if still in. If there continues to be 2 or more players remaining, the dealer executes another discard off the top, then flips over the “turn” card next to the initial trio. Wagering circulates again, before the final “river” card is revealed. Any participants left in the running finalize their bets, then reveal the best 5-card poker hand they can make, combining the secret duo in the “hole”, and the exposed quintet on the “board”.
Strategy = With 5 cards visible and shared by all remaining players at the end of the hand, it’s possible to surmise each opponent’s hidden “hole” cards, based on their betting activity. This element also opens the door for bluffing, slow playing, and other manipulative wagering tactics. Starting with multiple face cards, pairs, or suited connectors in the “hole” offers the best chance of winning, provided the “board” turns up favorably.
Nicknames = Acey-Ducey (As & 2s wild), Baseball (3s & 9s wild, face-up 4 means extra exposed card), Chicago (low spade gets half the pot), Razz (low hand only).
Players = 2 – 7 players.
Format = 52 card deck, ace can be either high and low, for both straights and numerical rank.
Deal = Two cards face down, one at a time, with the third face up, clockwise around the table in front of each player. Every person puts in the agreed upon ante wager amount before proceeding.
Goal = Bet each round to either force all opponents out, or show the best 5-card poker hand at the end of play, to win the pot. The highest, and lowest, assuming a qualifying hand of 8 high or worse, results split the total pot. It’s possible to win both the high and low in the same round, including with the same “wheel” hand, a straight from A – 5.
Pregame = Each participant secretly checks their pair of hidden cards, reviews their lone exposed card, then either checks or bets based on the strength of their current hand, with the ante value being the minimum bet size. Any person who wants to continue must match, or double the original wager amount, otherwise they fold.
Play = Once the initial pot is right, the dealer flips one card face up to each player, then betting resumes. Continue with additional single offerings, then additional rounds of wagering, until there are 4 exposed cards in front of all remaining folks, or only one gambler is left. The final card is delivered face down to each remaining participant, completing their hand. Players still in the running finalize their bets, then reveal the best or worst 5-card poker hand they can make from their 7 available options.
Strategy = Bold gambling and outright bluffing are key to this game, with a majority of each player’s hand exposed as the wagering progresses. Any early pair, especially a hidden one, should be played aggressively, while drawing towards straights and flushes can become obvious as face-up cards pile up. There’s a significant number of split pots in this format, so a good strategy is simply to avoid large losses without making it to the final reveal.
Nicknames = OFC, Pineapple (dealt 3, then discard one).
Players = 2, 3, or 4, individual, with head-to-head battles most common.
Format = 52 card deck, ace highest rank, and low for straights.
Deal = Initially, 5 cards distributed to the opponent(s), then to the dealer, all face up, hence the game’s name. These starters must be organized in order, before the next player gets their turn.
Goal = Win the most “unit” on the board, which, when completed, is composed of one 3-card, and two 5-card poker hands at the end of play. Instead of wagering after each round dealt, per typical poker protocols, an agreed upon monetary value per “unit” is established prior to commencing the action.
Play = Once the initial 5 holdings are set up by each participant, subsequent cards are delivered one at a time, clockwise around the table. These new additions are carefully placed on the grid to generate a trio of ranked poker hands, the top (3), middle (5), and bottom (5). To achieved a qualifying layout, these arrangements must be carefully organized in descending order, from lowest to highest poker value. Additional risks can be taken by going for bonus hands in each position (ties push), with extra “unit” values earned denoted in the list to follow. Each round is scored as the difference in total “units” earned, which are often tied to a specific monetary amount. Failure to adhere to the top-middle-bottom match worst-middling-best poker hand format results in “fouling”, and automatic concession of 6 “units”; all bonuses achieved by their opponent are also tallied.
Strategy = With all cards exposed for everyone, including opponents, to see, normal poker methods like bluffing and reraising are not on the table, literally. As with most card games, there’s a distinct advantage to being the dealer, in this case seeing the assembled hand placements of all others. Gambling on “unit” bonuses, especially in the middle and top rows, increases the risk of not generating a legal, qualifying layout (“fouling”), like those accurately placed below.
For those inclined to go deeper down the playing card rabbit hole, there’s several more intricate and lengthy games out there. Check out the various machinations of Bridge, a pursuit which can take years to learn, and often results in creation of lifelong partnerships. Intellectual savants in the business, finance, and political realms, like Bill Gates, Warren Buffett, and Dwight Eisenhower, all use complex cards as an outlet for mental stimulation and social activity.
On the opposite end of the spectrum, there are numerous individual card manipulation challenges, ranging from near-impossible brain teasers, to mind-numbingly simple tasks, all conceived to kill time. However, the origin of playing cards revolves around getting humans together to interact in competitive banter. As a result, lone pursuits with a deck haven’t made this list.
In this era of social media rabbit holes, and doom scrolling on the couch, card games represent an opportunity to get out, make friends, and converse with others. Feel free to download a Spider Solitaire app if that’s your jam, where dealing is instantaneous, with the rules on these electronic platforms are built in and automated.
There’s an undeniable tactile benefit to shuffling and dealing a deck of cards, to a collective of randoms, seated in a makeshift circle, around any available flat surface, which can’t be replicated on the internet. That being said, there are great resources online to learn and participate in pretty much any possible card endgame.
Whatever your fancy, embrace the amazing juxtaposition between simplicity and complexity that comes with games based on uniform rectangles of durable paper, adorned with 4 sets of unique shapes, and organized in 13 consecutive numerical units. Shuffle up and deal.
Card Sharks:
Fun games that can be executed with a standard 52-card deck. [REF]
Comprehensive list of searchable card games from Bicycle. [REF]
Rules for most of the card games on this list, written up by a group of friendly Aussies. [REF]
Lengthy list of card games applicable for kids. [REF]
Links to simplified rules on several obscure playing card pursuits. [REF]
Website where you can gather groups and play all manner of card (and other board) games online. [REF]